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Mauritius - South

Travelling south from Trou d’Eau Douce, the road heads inland and passes through the village of Bel Air Rivière Sèche before turning back towards the coast and crossing over the Grande Rivière Sud-est.

At the mouth of the river is a charming fishing village. There is a small waterfall where the river dives into the sea, which is often visited during tourist boat trips. It can also be reached on foot. Follow the signs marked GRSE to the parking area and it’s a 15-minute walk.

Across the river is the village of Deux Frères (Two Brothers), with another village, puzzlingly called Quatre Sœurs (Four Sisters), a little further on. The scenery along this road is beautiful, with sugarcane clinging to the impossibly steep slopes of the Bamboo Mountains on one side and fishing boats huddling together in turquoise water on the other.

The mountain range descends to the sea at the headland of Pointe du Diable (Devil’s Point), where the ruins of French batteries are listed as a national monument. Cannons here date from 1750–80 and were used to guard two wide gaps (North and Danish passages) in the reef. The devil of this point was said to be responsible for upsetting the magnetic compasses of ships passing the headland.

The road follows the coast around the edge of the peninsula, from where Ile aux Fouquets and Ile de la Passe are visible. An unmanned lighthouse on Ile aux Fouquets marks the rocks at the southern entrance through the reef into Grand Port. During the battle for Grand Port, Ile de la Passe was captured by the British, who kept the French flag flying to lure in French vessels. Ruined fortifications remain on the island.

At Anse Jonchée is Kestrel Valley, part of an estate formerly known as Domaine du Chasseur. In 2007 the estate teamed up with the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation to aid in the preservation of the Mauritius kestrel, so watch out for the sandy-coloured birds hovering in the area. Before you reach Domaine de l’Ylang Ylang, where ylang ylang is grown and essential oil distilled, you will pass a rather smaller enterprise of a similar ilk. A bright orange kiosk outside a modest home on a sharp bend opposite the sea, is where Laurianne Ghansseeram sells essential oils and candles. The oils include ylang ylang, frangipani, eucalyptus, peppermint and cinnamon. With over ten years’ experience in oil distillation, Laurianne is very knowledgeable on their various medicinal uses. Prices start at Rs350 for 10ml.

Legend says that French soldiers used to duel over the girls they met at Bois des Amourettes (Young Lovers’ Wood). Swords have been found in the vicinity of the cave and rock known as Salle d’Armes down on the sea’s edge.

Mauritius - South

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