Mauritius - Cirques

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A substantial portion of Réunion’s interior is taken up by three ‘cirques’ or gigantic natural amphitheatres, which were formed when ancient volcanic craters collapsed. Subsequent erosion by the elements completed the job. The cirques, which differ considerably from each other in scenery and climate, converge at Piton-des-Neiges.

The first inhabitants of the cirques were runaway slaves or marrons of Malagasy origin, who fled to the mountains to escape slave hunters. Hence many villages in the cirques have Malagasy names.

Cirque de Cilaos The name ‘Cilaos’ is derived from a Malagasy word meaning ‘the place you never leave’. This is the southernmost and driest of Réunion’s cirques, covering roughly 100km². It lies between the island’s two highest peaks: Piton-des-Neiges (3,069m) and Grand Bénard (2,896m). Where remote mountain hamlets now nestle on small, flat plots called ilets, runaway slaves once sought shelter.

About 10,000 people live in this cirque, where the climate is conducive to cultivation of lentils (for the nationally popular cari dishes), vineyards (for local wine production) and tobacco. The climate is widely renowned as the healthiest of all Réunion’s microclimates and the thermal springs there are said to have healing properties Note that evenings, even in summer, can be very cold, whilst the days are normally pleasant, with sunny mornings. Ordinarily, a cloak of mist descends on the town by about 15.00, adding to the dreamy ambience.

Getting to the town of Cilaos, the largest settlement in the cirques and an absolutely charming place, entails the infamous uphill drive from St-Louis on the coast. I say ‘infamous’ because this 34km road features 200 sharp hairpin bends and you won’t forget negotiating it in a hurry. The trip will take you at least two hours, with stops at awesome viewpoints. Sadly, the road has seen many fatalities, as is evident from the presence of numerous roadside shrines.

Many visitors remark on the similarity of Cilaos’s scenery to that of the western European Alps in summertime. This is mostly true of the region around the town of Cilaos itself, which is at 1,200m, but there are also some lush tropical forests.

Cilaos is known for the embroidery which is produced here and numerous shops sell locally made examples.

You used to be able to visit thermal springs in the forest just outside the town, which were discovered in 1819. Unfortunately a rock slide during a cyclone covered the springs and they can no longer be reached. Visitors can still experience the thermal waters at the Irénée Accot Thermal Centre (see What to do in Cirque de Cilaos, page 338).

Above the town of Cilaos is the small settlement of Ilet a Cordes, said to be named for the ropes that the runaway slaves used to reach the small plateau on which it sits. It is cradled within steep slopes and arriving there you feel as if you are the first to discover it. The 430 or so inhabitants are predominantly farmers; lentils have been grown here since 1835 and are the main crop, harvested around September and left to dry in the sun.

Getting there and away If you drive, take your time and take care. Don’t be distracted by the view – you’ll need all the concentration you can get! Alternatively, you can take the bus, although this may involve at least as many, if not more, heart-in-mouth moments as driving. Buses (Line K) run between St-Pierre and Cilaos, via St-Louis, about six times a day (three times on Sunday).

Tourist information The tourist office (% 0892 270201; f 0262 317818; e accueil.cilaos[at]otisud.re; sud.reunion.fr; ( 08.30–12.30 & 13.30–17.00 Mon–Sat, 09.00–12.00 Sun & public holidays) is at 2 Rue MacAuliffe. Staff can provide information on trails and local guides, and can book accommodation for any hikes you are planning. Free internet access is available in 15-minute slots.

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Mauritius - Cirques

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Mauritius - Cirques