Mauritius - Culture

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Rodriguans pride themselves on their hospitality and refer to their remote haven as the ‘anti-stress’ island. It’s certainly worth taking time to see some of the towns, villages and scenery and to get a feel for Rodriguan lifestyle.

Most of the people live either off the sea or the land. The crops cultivated – onions, garlic, chillies, potatoes and maize – are not the same as on Mauritius. As a result, the countryside bears no resemblance to that of Mauritius, but reminds many of the Transkei in southern Africa, with deep green valleys, cultivated lands, and herds of livestock (cattle, goats and pigs).

Maize cobs are left to dry on roofs, which is very reminiscent of Africa and something that is not seen in Mauritius. Sausages, left to cure in the sun, are also often seen on rooftops. The rather uninspiring but neatly built square houses one sees so much of in the countryside are government subsidised, built using coral bricks and designed to be cyclone-proof.

Water is very scarce in Rodrigues. Although there is a mains water supply, most houses have water tanks for collecting and storing water.

In late afternoon, fishermen can be seen sailing to shore in their pirogues and bringing in their nets, whilst at low tide groups of women wade out to the reefs to fish for octopus. This requires a great deal of skill as the octopus are well camouflaged.

One of the highlights of the week for most people is the market at Port Mathurin on Wednesday and Saturday, where much of the home produce is sold.

On weekend evenings the island vibrates to the sound of traditional music at nightclubs, hotels, community ‘balls’ and private celebrations. Dancing is a vital part of the Creole culture but the European influence is obvious: the Scottish, polka, laval (the waltz) and quadrille are still danced today, mainly by the older generation. The traditional séga-tambour has its roots in Africa and Madagascar. The séga of Rodrigues is said to be closer to its original form than that of Mauritius, thanks to its isolation from external influences. It is also known as the séga coupé because the only couple on the dance floor is continually separated by other male and female partners cutting in.

The European influence can also be seen in the musical instruments, namely the accordion, which gave rise to the séga-kordion. However, there is now concern amongst the older generation that the tradition of accordion playing is at risk, as few young people are learning to play the instrument. With the help of the European Union, a programme to teach the accordion to youngsters has been established. The Franco-Malagasy legacy to the Rodriguan folk group is a series of simple instruments, such as the drum, the maravanne (a small box filled with dry seeds), the triangle and the bobre (musical bow).

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