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Mauritius - Piton De La Fournaise

Most people consider this to be Réunion’s single most striking attraction. Piton-de-la-Fournaise (Furnace Peak) is one of the world’s largest and most impressive shield volcanoes, reaching 2,631m. It is also one of the world’s most active, having erupted a number of times in recent years. As activity can last for two weeks or more, the eruptions draw crowds of spectators (at least 20,000 came to see the eruption that began on 8 March 1998). In-depth information on the volcano can be found at the Maison du Volcan in La Plaine-des-Cafres (see What to see in La Plaine-des-Cafres, page 333).

When Piton-des-Neiges was still active, some 300,000 years ago, Piton-de-la-Fournaise rose up to its southeast and the successive layers of lava from both the volcanoes created the eerily lunar Plaine des Sables.

The drive to the volcano is an adventure in its own right. From La Plaine-des-Cafres you climb through an Alpine landscape dotted with cows sporting cowbells, which look as if they should be advertising Swiss chocolate. There are several spectacular viewpoints, including the panorama of Piton-des-Neiges looming over La Plaine-des-Cafres, and perhaps most striking of all, the view of La Vallée de la Rivière des Remparts at Nez de Boeuf. This valley, which stretches for 23km, is lined by cliffs rising up to 1,000m and looks almost tunnel-like as you peer down into it. And then you catch sight of a lone village on the valley floor, Roche Plate, and are left wondering how people manage to live in such isolation. Certainly, according to the information board at the viewpoint, life is not easy for those villagers, who battle cyclones and landslides on a regular basis.

The landscape becomes gradually stranger until you begin your descent to the barren moonscape that is La Plaine des Sables, preceding the volcano crater. Then it’s an uphill stretch to Pas de Bellecombe (2,311m), which offers a fantastic view of the volcano and outer crater. There is a kiosk (( 07.30–16.00 daily) displaying information on the volcano and the walks, which is worth reading before you set off as it indicates the routes and their level of difficulty. The building also contains toilets and sells drinks. You can leave your car in the car park whilst you walk. It is best to set off as early as possible in the morning when the skies are clear because in the afternoon the clouds roll in like a thick fog. You will walk across solidified lava, so take care and make sure you have suitable footwear. Water, some food, suncream and a sunhat are essential, as is some warm clothing. For safety reasons, it is important that you stick to the marked paths.

From Pas de Bellecombe the walk starts with a descent via steep steps to the floor of the outer crater. Various routes are marked with paint, some shorter and easier than others. The most popular takes you straight across the outer crater towards the classically cone-shaped volcano directly in front of you. Since the eruption of December 2010, the walk is rather more arduous than it was and to reach the crater takes around seven hours return. Don’t be surprised if you are passed by eager Frenchmen in Lycra running the path, just for fun. On the way to the crater you will come across some distinctive formations, such as Formica Leo, a scoria cone formed in 1753, and a natural cavern in the lava known as Chapelle de Rosemont.

The fit and energetic can try one of the many hiking trails that lead up to the volcano from various other parts of the island. Grading on all of them is difficult. Alternatively, you could see it from the air, as part of an unforgettable helicopter ride over the island. Whichever you choose, don’t miss out on seeing the volcano: it is a mind-boggling, primal experience. There is a gîte at Pas de Bellecombe (one of the island’s better mountain houses), where visitors can stay overnight. It is also a handy place to have lunch after walking to the crater.

Mauritius - Piton De La Fournaise

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